Burundi, var är det nu det ligger? Det är nånting med Hutsier och Tutuer – eller vad de nu heter – som mördar varandra med machete-knivar, nånting med fattigdom, korruption, militärdiktatur, nöd och elände? Det hopplösa, mörka Afrika i ett bananskal, eller hur?

Tja. Jag har precis varit där.

Det ligger naturligtvis någonting i det. Och det finns en del orsaker till att vi inte ser mycket om landet i massmedia. En av dem är att det inte försiggår något folkmord just nu, ingen naturkatastrofer, ingen kupp. Det finns ingen misslyckad FN-mission, USA och EU har få intressen, Madeleine Halfbright har inte sagt något om det nyss, NATO:s Solana ser inte bombningar i Burundi som viktiga för firandet av alliansens 50-årsdag i april.

För en tid sedan då 50 människor mördades strömmade hundratals journalister med CNN i spetsen till Burundi…men för att snabbt försvinna till Kongo där tio gånger så många hade mist livet. En tio gånger så bra “historia” alltså…

Men i verkligheten är Burundi just nu en bra historia. Det är huvudanledningen till att Du inte hör någonting. Och det kan faktiskt betyda att det finns en chans till att de 6 miljoner månniskorna där skall få det bättre och få lugn och ro till att ro sitt intressanta freds- och försoningsprojekt i land. Kanske! För risken för det motsatta lurar precis runt hörnet, varje dag och natt. Själv håller jag andan och vill gärna tro på att det jag såg under 14 dagar i landet kommer att visa sig rimligt hållbart. Med lite tur, förstås.

Så här är det: 80% av befolkningen kan vare sig läsa eller skriva och bara ett par procent talar franska. Intellektuella var specialbyte under folkmorden. Huvudstaden Bujumbura och landets ledning är i stort på Tusi-minoritetens händer; detta allt medan Hutu-majoriteten – och andra grupper – känner sig starkt marginaliserad, såväl de som stannat i landet som de som flydde och fortfarande inte vågar vända hem. Under de senaste 30-40 åren har man slagit ihjäl runt en halv miljon, inklusive egna familjemedlemmar och folk från den egna gruppen.

Det är utegångsförbud från midnatt till 05:00 och vägspärrar runt om huvudstaden, som man inte kan köra in i efter 17:00. Det finns kvarter i Bujumbura där en hutu-minister skulle skjutas ihjäl i det ögonblicket han steg ur sin bil – så som kungar, presidenter och statsministrar på rad har blivit under samma period. Det mördas människor varje dag, någonstans i Burundi.

Väpnade “rebeller” ligger i berg och kullar – och dem finns det gott om – och hoppas på en möjlighet att gripa makten. De tycks ha sitt stöd i Kabila’s Kongo och i Tanzania. Tanzanias landsfader, Julius Nyerere, uppträder för övrigt i rollen som (inte helt) neutral fredsmedlare på de såkallade Arusha-möten, som också kallas den “yttre” fredsprocessen. Inte färre än 19 delegationer från Burundi träffas där för att prata om framtiden.

Detta, ett av världens fattigaste länder, använder förmodligen kring 40% av sin statsbudget på militär. Det är naturligtvis ingen demokrati. Det finns t ex ingen journalistutbildning och bara en handfull enkla “tidningar.” Man kan inte köpa internationella tidningar och det finns bara två tryckpresser. Den nationella radion – det enda media som når ut i bushen – är helt under regeringens kontroll. Det finns bara en enda professor i internationell politik (på deltid) på det enda universitetet, som för tillfället är stängt därför att studenterna strejkar…

Hälsosektorn ska vi bara inte tala om. Det vet jag efter att ha varit med om att plocka upp en ung döende kvinna med malaria och föra henne till sjukhuset i Kirundo-provinsen – och där blivit avkrävd en förmögenhet i lokala pengar för att man överhuvudtaget skulle undersöka henne.

Konflikternas politiska, historiska och konstitutionella bakgrund tycks minst lika komplicerad som i t.ex. det forna Jugoslavien. Och Burundi är inte heller en etnisk konflikt i botten.

Men så här är det också. Det pågår som sagt fredsförhandlingar i Arusha; inte idealiska men långt mer seriösa, djupgående och förtroendeskapande över tid än t. ex. Dayton och Rambouillet. Man räknar med namnteckningar på en nationell fredsöverenskommelse i år. Förra året påbörjades parallellt en “inre” fredsprocess med rundabordssamtal i Gitega vilka ledde till ett maktfördelningsavtal som förbättrade samarbetet mellan det hutu-dominerade parlamentet och den tutsi-dominerade regeringen. Idag är cirka hälften av alla ministrar hutuer.

Det har införts en övergångs-konstitution, som förbinder 1992 års konstitution med ett dekret från President Pierre Buyoya. Han tog makten vid en kupp 1996 och tycks vara inriktat på att skapa fred och försoning i detta samhället, även om man med god rätt kan mena att det blir svårt att göra det till en rättvis fred.

Vidare söker man sig till sina klassiska konfliktlösningsmekanismer, de som finns i alla samhällen men som ignoreras av västliga konfliktlösare. Stickordet i Burundi är “Abashingantahe” – ett råd av vise män (och nu tillika kvinnor) där den enskilda väljs av alla invånare genom konsensus på tre kriterier: att han eller hon söker sanningen, har moralisk integritet och är rättvis. De fanns förut i varje by och kring kungen, de var”folkets ögon och öron.”

Presidenten har nu utpekat ett nationellt Abashingantahe-råd med konsultativ status. Naturligtvis har kritiker rätt som säger att det inte borde utpekas uppifrån, men det är ändå intressant att en institution, som kördes i sank för många år sedan av bland andra den belgiska förvaltningen nu dyker upp när landet söker identitet och försoning efter sällsynt brutala folkmord.

Nyligen har man inrättat 40 extra platser i parlamentet för folkliga rörelser, och det finns många sådana i varje fall i Bujumbura. På detta kreativa sätt vill man förankra fredsprocessen i det civila samhället och dra in människor direkt i politiken. Inte direkt vad en diktatur skulle göra…

Det finns tre utomordentliga ministrar. Intellektuellt bra, ödmjuka och kreativa. Utbildningsministern vill införa fredsundervisning, konfliktlösning och försoning och skapa en särskild utbildning för tiden efter ett fredsavtal där demobiliserade unga soldater kan få en möjlighet till re-integration och arbete. Ministern för mänskliga rättigheter – jodå en sådan finns – arbetar hårt med landets enorma problem och lyssnar till alla goda råd han kan få kring frågor som försoning, utbildning i mänskliga rättigheter, etc. Och ministern för fred – jodå en sådan finns också – har överblick över såväl den yttre som den inre utvecklingen som en del av landets utvecklingsstrategi.

Ingen av dem är rädd för att säga, “Detta har vi ännu ingen lösningar på, men vi arbetar på det. Vad tycker ni vi skulle kunna göra?” Jag vet inte hur de andra regeringsmedlemmar är men jag träffade på samma öppenhet och vision hos rådgivare till presidenten och många folkliga rörelser.

De förtjänar allt stöd. Nu.

Om allt går väl – och det gör det ju inte alltid – kan burundierna bli pionjärer för fred och försoning. Om de kan lyckas efter våldsvanvettet borde alla kunna. Under dessa 14 dagar hörde jag mer äkta fredsvilja, jag så fler frön till försoning och djupare politiskt engagemang för samexisistens – på alla sidor – än jag har hört och sett under 8 år i det forna Jugoslavien.

Peace & future researcher + ‌Art Photographer

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