Gandhi i Mumbai och Poona

Trettio välbeväpnade poliser arresterade 4 maj 1930 Gandhi där han utvunnit salt, i byn Karadhi nära Dandi. Han fördes till Yeravda-fängelset i Poona. Det var inte sista gången han kastades i fängelse i denna delen av Indien.

Mellan 1917 och 1932 var Mumbai/Bombay och Poona (4 timmars tågresa in i landet) viktiga platser på Gandhis långa fredsväg (liksom Ahmedabad). I Poona satt han också fången i Aga Khan-palatset, sedan han återvänt tomhänt ifrån förhandlingar i London och nyårsafton 1931-32 initierat en ickevåldskampanj för Oberoende. Vid midnatt 3-4 januari arresterade han på taket (där han sov) till sitt hus i Mumbai, vilket i dag är ett jättefint Gandhi-Museum – “Mani Bhavan” – på Liburnum Road nr 19.

Mani Bhavan, Liburnum Rd 19, Mumbai/Bombay – Photo Jan Öberg, © TFF 2001

I Mumbai lärde han sig att spinna och dricka getmjölk. Han drog igång strejkar mot engelska lagar, startade en av sina många tidningar och jobbade som socialarbetare. 1934 beslöt han här att sluta betala medlemsavgift till Kongresspartiet och koncentrera sig på de kastlösas situation. 1942 inledde han på ett torg i Mumbai den allindiska “Lämna Indien”-kampanjen, riktad mot engelsmännen. För detta fängslades han 9 augusti åter och internerades i Aga Khan-palatset tillsammans med sin hustru Katurba och sin sekreterare och nära vän Mahadev Desai. Desai dog några dagar efter interneringen, Kasturba i Gandhis armar i februari 1944. Gandhi släpptes först 6 maj 1944.

Museet “Mani Bhavan” blir min oas, en underbar stor villa på en lugn väg i Mumbai, med 200-300 gäster per dag. Här finns en liten butik med Gandhi-frimärken och böcker men också ett bibliotek med 50.000 volymer, där besökande fritt kan läsa och låna. Här finns också ett forskningsinstitut med möteslokaler. Alla väggar är prydda med bilder, originaldokument, brev, fotos etc. – intimt, informativt, meditativt. Man kan gå ut på små balkonger och reflektera i skuggan från höga träd.

Biblioteket i Mani Bhavan – Photo Jan Öberg, © TFF 2001

Gandhi själv levde på andra våningen och hans enkla arbetsrum ser ut ungefär som i Birla House i Delhi, men med ett par viktiga skillnader. Det finns nu en telefon! Dessutom finns det en oljetavla och en skulptur av Gandhi.

Mani Bhavan är ett måste på en färd i Gandhis fotspår.

Det är också Aga Khan-palatset i Poona, dock mindre välskött. Palats är dyra att underhålla och den indiska regeringen har skurit ned på bidragen till Gandhi-museerna. Gandhis rum är stort med ett elegant badrum och utsikt till en underbar park. Jag får känslan av hotell snarare än fängelse. Här finns också en minneslund för Kasturba och Desai.

Aga Khan-Palatset i Poona – Photo Jan Öberg, © TFF 2001

Jag träffar Gandhi-aktivister och människor från stadens jesuitiska seminarium som har för avsikt att rusta upp palatset med möteslokal, föreläsningar, bibliotek och en ekologisk trädgård i parken.

När jag ändå är i Poona vill jag se Yeravda-fängelset, där Gandhi internerades flera gånger, liksom Nehru och Desai. Men det är stängt för allmänheten. Den av engelsmännen byggda fästningen hyser i dag 3400 fångar av alla slag. Lokala Gandhi-aktivister har suttit här för sina demonstrationer – senast under Clinton’s besök.

Jag knackar på fängelseporten tillsammans med Poonas enda fredsforskare, Delia Maria Thomas. Vi besöker olika delar av den fantastiska fängelsebyråkratin och får till slut ett papper med ett “ja”.

Vi förs till den pittoreska fängelsegården omgärdad av låga stugor, med ett gigantiskt mangoträd i mitten. Jag frågar skämtsamt om det är möjligt att bli internerad här några dagar eftersom det är så trevligt. Gården har sopats, allt är nymålat, färska blommor överallt.

Mangoträdet i fängelsegården – Photo Jan Öberg, © TFF 2001

Mangoträdet är berömt. Engelskmännen hade 1932 föreslagit at Indiens konstitution skulle innehålla en positiv särbehandling av kastlösa: de skulle ha egna valmanskårer. Gandhi protesterade. Han ämnade “fasta till döds” mot förslaget liggande på en järnsäng under mangoträdet. Han såg frågan i religiösa och moraliska, inte politiska, termer. Nyordningen skulle skapa splittring mellan hinduer. Engelsmännen ville att de kastlösa skulle få ökat inflytande, men Gandhi ansåg att förslaget skulle cementera rollen som kastlös; kastväsendets avskaffande skulle därmed försvåras ytterligare. Den religiöse Gandhi önskade ett sekulariserad Indien, där alla behandlades rättfärdigt.

Konflikten löstes i “Yeravda-pakten” då den nästan döende Gandhi fick ledaren för de kastlösa med sig, Dr. Ambedkar. Indiens massor reste sig nu mot engelsmännen.

Gandhis cell i Yeravda-fängelset – Photo Jan Öberg, © TFF 2001

Som vanligt såg Gandhi först till helhetens intressen. Han höll fast vid principen om att målet är summan av medlen.

Själv undrar jag vad Gandhi skulle ha tänkt om dagens minoritets- och mänskliga rättigheterspolitik sådan den praktiserats av Väst i Kosovo och Makedonien? Här finns vare sig hänsyn till helheten eller någon som gitter fasta emot den förljugna principlösheten.

Jan Öberg

Peace & future researcher + ‌Art Photographer

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