Burundi, hvor er det nu det ligger? Det er noget med Hutsier og Tutuer – eller hvad de nu hedder – der laver folkemord med machete-knive på hinanden, noget med fattigdom, korruption, militærdiktatur, nød og elendighed? Det håbløse, mørke Afrika i en bananskal, ikke?

Tjah. Jeg har lige været der.

Der er selvfølgelig noget om snakken. Der er en del årsager til at man ikke hører særligt meget om livet i dette lille land. En af dem er at der ikke foregår noget folkemord for tiden, ingen naturkatastrofer, intet kup. Der er ingen mislykket FN-mission, USA og EU har ingen interesser, Madeleine Halfbright har ikke sagt noget om det, NATO’s Solana ser ikke bombinger i Burundi som afgørende forud for alliancens 50årsdag.

For nogen tid siden da et halvt hundrede mennesker var blevet dræbt valfartede hundreder af journalister med CNN i spidsen dertil . . . men for at komme videre til Kongo hvor ti gange så mange var blevet dræbt. En ti gange så god “historie” altså…

Men i virkeligheden er Burundi lige nu en god historie. Det er en hovedårsag til at Du ikke hører noget derfra. Og dét igen kan betyde at der faktisk er en chance for at de 6 millioner skal få det lidt bedre og ro deres interessante freds- og forsoningsprojekt i land. Måske! For risikoen for det modsatte lurer lige om hjørnet, hver dag. Selv holder jeg vejret og vil gerne tro på, at det jeg så under 14 dages besøg vi vise sig at være rimeligt holdbart. Med lidt held.

Sådan hér er det. 80% af befolkningen hverken kan læse eller skrive, bare et par procent taler fransk. Intellektuelle var speciellt objekter under folkemordene. Hovedstaden Bujumbura og landets ledelse er stort set på Tutsi-minoritetens hænder, mens Hutu-majoriteten – og andre grupper – føler sig stærkt marginaliseret, både dem der er blevet i landet og dem, der stadig bor i udlandet og ikke vover at vende hjem. I de sidste 30-40 år har man slået mindst en halv million, inklusive familiemedlemmer og folk fra ens egen gruppe, ihjel.

Der er udgangsforbud fra midnat til kl 05.00, vejspærringer rundt om hovedstaden, som man ikke kan køre ind til efter 17.00. Der er kvarterer i Bujumbura hvor en hutu-minister ville blive skudt på stedet hvis han steg ud af sin bil – som konger, præsidenter og statsministre i stribevis er blevet det. Der myrdes mennesker hver dag et eller andet sted i dagens Burundi.

Bevæbnede “rebeller” lurer i bjerge og bakker – og dem er der mange af – på en lejlighed til at gribe magten. De synes at blive støttet af Kabila’s Kongo og af Tanzania – hvis landsfader Julius Nyerere for øvrigt optræder i rollen som ikke helt neutral fredsmægler i de såkaldte Arusha-møder, den “ydre” fredsproces hvor ikke færre en 19 delegationer fra Burundi mødes for at snakke om fremtiden.

Dette et af verdens fattigste lande bruger formentlig omkring 40% af sit statsbudget til militæret. Der er naturligvis ikke demokrati hér, der findes ingen journalistuddannelse og bare en håndfuld enkle “aviser;” man kan ikke købe internationale aviser, der er kun to trykpresser og den nationale radio – den eneste der når ud i bushen – er under regeringens kontrol. Der er kun én professor i international politik (deltidsansat) på det eneste universitet, der forøvrigt er lukket lige nu fordi studenterne strejker.

Sundhedssektoren skal vi bare ikke tale om, det véd jeg efter at have taget en ung, døende kvinde med malaria til et sygehuset i Kirundo-provinsen og blive afkrævet formue i lokale penge for at de overhovedet ville undersøge hende.

Og konflikternes politiske, historiske, psykologiske og konstitutionelle baggrund synes mindst lige så kompliceret end i f.eks. det tidligere Jugoslavien. Og det er med garanti heller ikke en etnisk konflikt.

Men sådan hér er det også: Der foregår som sagt fredsforhandlinger i Arusha; ikke ideelle men langt mere seriøse, dybtgående og tillidsskabende over tid end f.eks. Dayton og Rambouillet. Man regner med en underskrift på en national fredsaftale i år. Sidste år påbegyndtes en intern fredsproces med en rundbordssamtale i Gitega, der ledte til magtfordelings-aftale, især med henblik på at forbedre samarbejdet mellem det hutu-dominerede parlament og den tutsi-dominerede regering. Cirka halvdelen af alle ministre er hutu-er.

Der er vedtaget en overgangs-grundlov, der forbinder 1992-grundloven med et overgangsdekret fra President Pierre Buyoya, der tog magten ved et kup i 1996 og synes stærkt opsat på at få det her samfund på fredelig fod – selvom en del med god ret vil mene at det ikke er en retfærdig, fredelig fod.

Endvidere søger man sig til sine klassiske konfliktløsningsmekanismer, dem der findes i alle samfund, men ignoreres af vestlige konfliktløsere. Stikordet i Burundi er “Abashingantahe;” det er et råd af vise mænd (nu også kvinder) hvor den enkelte gennem indbyggernes konsensus er blevet udvalgt og prøvet i årevis på tre kriterier: at han eller hun søger sandhed, har moralsk integritet og er retfærdig. De fandtes traditionelt i hver en flække og omkring kongen, de var “folkets øjne og øren.”

Præsidenten har nu udpeget et nationalt Abashingantahe-råd med konsultativ status. Naturligtvis burde de ikke håndplukkes oppefra, men det er interessant at en institution, der kørtes i sænk for mange årtier siden af blandt andet den belgiske forvaltning nu dukker op, når landet søger identitet og forsoning efter historisk unikke massemord.

For nylig har man åbnet 40 pladser i parlamentet for folkelige bevægelser, og dem er der mange af i hvert fald i Bujumbura. På denne kreative måde vil man forankre fredsprocessen i det civile samfund og inddrage folk direkte i politiken.

Der er tre fremragende ministre, intellektuelt gode, ydmyge, kreative. Uddannelsesministeren vil indføre undervisning i fred, konfliktløsning og forsoning og skabe en særlig uddannelse for tiden efter en fredsaftale hvor demobiliserede soldater – der er meget unge – kan reintegreres og få job. Menneskeretsministeren – jo, en sådan findes – knokler med landets enorme problemer og lytter til alle gode råd om forsoningskommissioner, menneskerettighedsuddannelse, osv. Ministeren for fredsprocessen – jo, en sådan findes – har overblik over de to fredsprocesser og langsigtet strategi.

Ingen af dem er bange for at sige. “Dette har vi endnu ingen løsning på, men vi arbejder på det. Hvad synes Du vi kan gøre.” Jeg véd ikke hvordan de andre ministre er. Jeg traf samme ånd og åbenhed hos rådgivere til presidenten og hos adskillige folkelige organisationer.

De fortjener alt mulig støtte. Nu.

Hvis alt går vel – og det gør det jo ikke altid – kan burundierne blive pionérer for fred og forsoning. Hvis de kan lykkes efter det voldsvanvid de har været igennem, burde alle kunne. På 14 dage hørte jeg mere ægte fredsvilje, jeg så flere frø til forsoning og dybere politisk engagement for sameksistens – på alle sider – end jeg har hørt og set i 8 år i det tidligere Jugoslavien.

Peace & future researcher + ‌Art Photographer

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